Santo Antão

We went for a day trip to Santo Antão, the greenest island in the archipelago. Long gone – fortunately – are the days of Nauta and Carvalho, the boats that used to make the crossing, extremely unsafe and untrustworthy (it was not uncommon for people to fall overboard or for the boat to turn around due to the wind); now there are good ferries that cross the channel between Mindelo and Porto Novo in 40 minutes and with no hazards.
I had been to Santo Antão before, also on a day trip, and remembered it as a most beautiful and magical place (probably also because I was living in the dry São Vicente then). And it lived to its reputation – it’s indeed a magically beautiful place. We hired a guide recommended by a friend in S. Vicente, and it was a perfect choice (Nhô Adelino d'Garça) – he was funny and helpful, we talked a lot and learned so much about the island, its stories and folklore, and shared memories of old songs.

Santo Antão is a remarkable volcanic island – one crosses the mountains and reach lush and green valleys, with banana trees, acacias, sugar cane plantations, where they produce the grogue, the spirit so characteristic of Cape Vert. We tasted it at a trapiche, where lovely girls tended the shop. Ribeira Grande – the same in the song Nhô Anton Escaderode – is a lovely little town where we had lunch listening to two girls rehearsing their singing, as is Ponta do Sol, with its quaint colonial buildings.

From there we went to the Fontainhas village, rated by some as one of the most beautiful landscapes in the world. It’s indeed beautiful, the old road is impressive, and we gave a ride to a few kids back from school at Ribeira Grande – they usually walk several miles to their villages.
Santo Antão is a land of contrasts – the lush valleys and the barren hills, impressive mountains and rugged coasts. It would be wonderful to stay there for a few days and do some hiking along those mountains – even with my fear of heights.